1. Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to a method of repairing or restoring damaged or imperfect hair and a method of nourishing hair. The present invention also relates to a method of styling hair.
2. Description of the Related Art
As shown in FIG. 1, a hair shaft is composed of an outer layer 1 covering the hair shaft, called the cuticle, a protein complex 2 constituting a body of the hair shaft, called the cortex, and a core of the hair shaft 3, called the medulla. The cuticle is composed of the outermost layer having flaps 4 like scales, called the epi-cuticle, the intermediate layer, called the exo-cuticle, and the underlying layer, called the end-cuticle.
When hair contacts chlorinated pool water, is exposed to sunlight, or is improperly brushed, for example, the hair is damaged. That is, the flaps of the cuticle of the hair are disordered or deteriorate, and then the cortex begins deteriorating. When hair is damaged, the hair shafts look dry and non-shiny, and are less resilient than sound hair shafts. Further, many split hair shafts may be observed. Even if hair is not damaged, hair may have received some stimuli causing deterioration, and thus it can be said that no one can have perfect hair.
Numerous types of hair treatment to nourish or repair hair are available on the market. Dominant conventional hair treatments are simple application of a solution, gel, mousse, or mist to hair. These products may be in the form of a shampoo or rinse or in the form of a hair lotion or styling product. However, these products do not provide satisfactory results, because the cuticle layer blocks components in the products from penetrating therethrough. The components, which stay on the surface of the cuticle, cannot repair or restore damaged hair.
The present inventors have explored hair treatment and discovered deep treatment which can treat the damaged cortex of hair shafts. The present invention includes a method of nourishing hair shafts, each hair shaft comprising a cuticle layer and a cortex enclosed in the cuticle layer, said method comprising the steps of: (a) hydrating hair shafts to open flaps of the cuticles layer, (b) applying to the hair shafts amino acids or peptides effective to nourish hair, and (c) compressing the hair shafts under heat by sandwiching the hair shafts between heated plates to cause the amino acids or peptides to penetrate through the cuticle layer and close the openings between the flaps. The penetrated amino acids or peptides nourish the cortex. In this method, no chemical modification is caused, unlike permanent treatment (although this repairing/restoring method can be used in combination with permanent treatment). In the above, the method can further comprise cooling the treated hair shafts to contract the cuticle layer, wherein the amino acids or peptides are effectively confined in the cortex.
In the above, the hydration step is for rendering the flaps of the cuticle layer lax and opening the flaps. The step can be accomplished by various means including washing, spraying, streaming, etc. The size of a gap between the flaps depends on the degree of hydration, and it is desirable to continue the hydration process until the size of the gap reach an appropriate level (e.g., approximately 10 nm). Hydration depends not only on moisture content but also temperature, and thus in the case of coarse hair (the flaps do not readily open), for example, stream may be effective. The applying step may comprise: after hydrating hair shafts or simultaneously with hydrating step, applying to the hair shafts amino acids or peptides effective to nourish hair. In an embodiment, the treating step may comprise: placing the hair shafts between surfaces having a temperature effective to generate steam; and pressing the hair shafts between the surfaces to generate steam from moisture of the hair shafts and substantially trap the steam around the hair shafts between the surfaces. In an embodiment, the temperature of the surfaces may be in the range of 130xc2x0 C. to 180xc2x0 C., preferably 150xc2x0 C. or higher. Pressurized superheated steam can be produced between the surfaces to generate cracks between the flaps of the cuticle, so that amino acids or peptides can externally be introduced through the cuticle into the cortex.
The amino acids or peptides have a molecular size smaller than the cracks (i.e., openings generated between flaps of the cuticle layer), so that the amino acids or peptides can enter into the cortex through openings generated in the cuticles during the pressurized seam treatment. In an embodiment, the amino acids or peptides have a low molecular weight and have a molecular size of 10 nm or less, preferably 2.5-5.0 nm.
In another embodiment, the hydrating step may comprise: washing the hair shafts; and removing excess water from the hair shafts. Hair has normally a moisture of 10-15%, and upon washing hair, the moisture content increases to 30-35%. The cortex structure includes numerous hydrogen bonds. By increasing the moisture content, hydrogen bonds tend to get loose and break, resulting in swelling of hair and leading to opening the cuticles. In the above, prior to the treating step, the hair shafts preferably contain moisture in an amount of 30% to 90%, preferably 60-80%, of the maximum amount of moisture that the hair shafts can hold.
Further, the cooling step may comprise: rapidly releasing the pressure; and blowing air onto the hair shafts.
In an embodiment, amino acids or peptides may have an average weight molecular weight of 400 to 1,000. Further, amino acids or peptides may have a molecular size of 2 nm to 5 nm. The above amino acids or peptides can easily penetrate through the treated cuticle. The amino acids or peptides should not be limited to but include peptides of hydrolyzed collagen. Conventional nourishing components having small molecular sizes may be used.
In an embodiment, the above method can be applied effectively to damaged or imperfect hair shafts. By conducting the method, the damaged or imperfect hair shafts can be repaired or restored.
The present invention also includes a method of repairing or restoring damaged or imperfect hair shafts, comprising the steps of: determining the condition of hair shafts; and conducting the nourishing method described above in accordance with the determined condition of the hair shafts, wherein the worse the condition of the hair shafts, the more the method is repeated. At hair saloons or beauty parlors, a hairdresser can determine the condition of customers"" hair and advise the best treatment.
Further, the present invention includes a method of styling hair, comprising the steps of: conducting the nourishing method described above; and styling the hair. In an embodiment, the styling is permanent treatment. The cortex of the hair shafts treated by the nourishing method described above is resilient, retains water, and comprises sufficient Sxe2x80x94S bonds. Further, the cuticle of the hair shafts is aligned in a direction. Thus, the hair shafts can be permed easily and maintain their shape for a long period of time.
For purposes of summarizing the invention and the advantages achieved over the prior art, certain objects and advantages of the invention have been described above. Of course, it is to be understood that not necessarily all such objects or advantages may be achieved in accordance with any particular embodiment of the invention. Thus, for example, those skilled in the art will recognize that the invention may be embodied or carried out in a manner that achieves or optimizes one advantage or group of advantages as taught herein without necessarily achieving other objects or advantages as may be taught or suggested herein.
Further aspects, features and advantages of this invention will become apparent from the detailed description of the preferred embodiments which follow.